Camera Settings that Every Landscape Photographer should adopt !!!
Despite camera manufacturer every person that wants to be announced as a landscape shooter must adopt the majority of camera settings described below. Most of them we have already done it and maybe some you have totally forgotten. So let’s dive deep…
I will have it in form of bullets along with a short explanation each time. Most of them you already know it. In case you need more details leave me a comment down below.
Place a self timer.
I don’t use a remote shutter, so the early setting direct out of box is to put a self timer. Usually 2 secs is enough but keep in mind that if you have a long lens in tripod then you may need 10 secs delay. A very useful function.
Turn off the beeps.
It is so annoying !!! Every time you focus beep, every time you change composition a bit and re focus beep, every time you dive in the menu beep. No no no…. Beep is going of a.s.a.p. I'm not trying to be ninja like or a stealth photographer (anything like that) but you know you're in the great outdoors you're photographing nature and usually the things you're hearing is running water or chirping birds when you have these lounges like beep beep beep noises and it just doesn't seem to fit the atmosphere.
Long Exposure Noise Reduction
It seems that most cameras have this on and it also seems that usually when cameras are shipped to you that the long exposure noise reduction is turned on and I always like to turn that off because mainly I like to have control of how I reduce noise in my images so if I want to reduce it in photoshop or if I want to do it inside Lightroom. So I set this to off right away but I'm going to have the control if I want to reduce noise in capture one, photoshop, lightroom. I want to be able to do that in my post processing workflow. I don't want the camera to try and reduce any kind of noise because who knows what type of algorithm or how good of a job it actually does so I always leave that off and I handle that myself whenever I go to edit my photographs
Enable back button focusing
When I have press the shutter button it is not locking in anything but when I select this button right here which is where I have the focusing set to, now you'll notice that it goes it locks on focus. I can also do a touch screen focus as well but I like it and I’m a big fan of back button focus and I set that up on every single one of my cameras.
Bracketting your shots
I do a lot of bracketing but it is a function that I use quite often and I think it's a pretty common shooting style in outdoor photography because it's not uncommon to encounter situations that have a great dynamic range (so bright highlights and dark shadows) and bracketing can come in very handy so what I do is I always set it to one of the fn menus and then I can easily just choose it.
I always use single point of focus but I have the option when I use the back button to let my camera focus and then I refine it by use manual focus. I believe it is the most critical combination as you can nail sharpness easily. I think cameras today are are absolutely fantastic when it comes to auto focus for so I always lean on that first to get me in the ballpark and then I like to refine that autofocus by using the manual focus just to tighten it up a little bit make sure it's completely perfectly pin sharp.
Single Focus point.
Usually, the 95% of my shot I use single point focus. In that way I point the camera where I want to focus and that is usually the main hero element in my picture. But it is good to assign a button to easily switch between single point and zone focus. I'm almost always in a single point of single point of focus but it's nice to be able to to quickly be able to have the option to change between the other various focus modes as well.
And because we cover all the Focus stuff above, I want to mention that I switch always on the Focus Peaking or otherwise the Zebras. It represents graphically the areas in the photo that are “blown out”. Because I’m always ETTR (expose to the right) it’s nice to have to see when your highlights are blown out.
I always shoot with auto white balance right here and I just always shoot in raw so I always kind of let the camera just decide what the white balance will be. Unless I am shooting video then I always select sunny white balance because the last thing you want when you're filming video is to have the white balance changing on every single scene that's a disaster in post-processing but when it comes to shooting raw photographs I just leave it on auto white balance and in a metering mode I always leave it on multi I really don't fuss around with that too much I don't change it a whole lot, always leave it on multi or average (average medium metering mode) that was a mouthful.
I use the Standard. From time to time I switch it in order to see some film emulation but I prefer to use the standard one.
Shoot in Raw.
I always do shoot in raw and I would highly encourage anybody to do the same as well if I could actually get to that section up here so image quality raw right there so I just pretty much leave it there so every once in a while maybe I'll shoot raw plus jpeg but I am always shooting in raw and I'm also always shooting in manual mode.
Quick access to Histogram.
I always want to be able to have easy access to a histogram so for this camera I have it assigned to a button so I can easily see it right here on this little top screen on this camera which I think is incredibly handy but being able to quickly access a histogram is very important
Turn off IBIS.